I was haunted by Schiaparelli’s striking dress

This season, Daniel Roseberry from Schiaparelli was looking for autumn/winter 2025 Couture collection of colors looking for a more elementary approach. After a flood of black and white pieces, a dress satin dress stabbed like a blood stain on a blanched carpet -and it dripped from an exposed, beats.

Roseberry set out on Schiaparelli’s foundation of surrealism and paid homage to Salvador Dalís 1953 The Royal Heart, a rubbed heart (the organ) that beats within the limits of a golden heart (form). The 2025 version of Roseberry is in a similar way with red rhinestones and on an artificial cleavage floor, and pulsates mechanically like a human heart.

The rest of the dress follows in its surrealistic representation of the human form. Roseberry created the shape of an upper body, breasts, nipples and all-in red satin and held it onto the back of the garment. The result almost makes it as if the model of the model is back. And while the lubricated, exposed organ looks robust in its ornament, the rest of the dress and its slim physique appear soft. The dress emphasizes our perception of reality with its disturbing beauty.

During his entire term of office of Schiparelli, the creative director has advertised his obsession with Anatomy, another surrealistic principle that calls back to Elsa Schiaparelli’s founding principles. Noses, toes and eyes are house signatures; The latter shows many clothing in the embroidery this season.

Schiagarelli Runway Collection — With the kind permission of Schiaparelli

Elsewhere in the collection, the anatomical references of Roseberry are not always so literally. These looks have a departure from Shapewear and Corsirus, an idea that he examined in previous couture collections up to the extremes, and the waist of the models restored to almost nothing. For autumn/winter 2025, he had techniques such as the cutting of fabric on the preload defined curves and accentuated the figure of a carrier – the same intensity, this time with a little easier.

Elsa Schiparelli was interested in the dialogue between fashion as benefits and fashion as art. She wondered: is a dress ever really just a dress? The collection notes today that the goal of this special idea was to merge life and art. When the body gives us life, it seems that Roseberry should free him on the persecution of art.